An early morn after the storm. Cold and crisp with tight little sounds and low slow movement from the sea. Birds acted surprised and the sand seemed thick and groggy, while seaweed huddled together. The sky was loud and proud, inspired clouds came forth. A good morning as we said goodbye to night.

The Central Coast is full of surprises.

While in Santa Barbara I had unique exposure to the Tea Fire aftermath. The thing that sticks with me most is the smell of wet ash and charcoal. It reminded me of the Painted Cave Fire. Almost like a monster had been through and at any time he would be back and there was nowhere to hide, exposed and helpless.

Someone once told me that we live by inches and seconds. Most of the fire victims are happy to have escaped with their family safe. There is an image down there of the metal frame of a Harley Davidson, left in the garage to burn while the family escaped. Rusty metal is everywhere. It comes when the intense heat of the fire burns all protective coating off the metal, then the firefighters soak the zone with water to put out the fire. The rust sets in immediately.

One of the lucky neighbors whose house did not burn was driving around giving hugs and pumpkin bread to all of her neighbors who had lost their homes.

I’ve known Charlie for a long time. We lived together in the Garden Street house during the early nineties in Santa Barbara. The Garden Street House was when he was at Brooks along with Mark Gordon, Thayer Allyson Gowdy and Catherine Manzella. But I had been surfing with Charlie for years before that and I pretty much grew up with Mark. It was such a rich time of learning for all of us. I was never a student at Brooks, I was studying design at the time, but I’ve learned so much from this crew over the years and I am continually inspired by their work.

During the holidays everybody seems to make it back home for a few days. And nothing says Thanksgiving like surfing with your friends. This year brought Charlie Langella, Jan Martinez and myself back in the water together. These shots are the guys telling surf stories of old. Charlie ended up giving me an early Christmas present this year. It’s the red 6′8″ pin tail. Thanks Chuck. The Central Coast Goleta is full of surprises.